商品詳細

Originally published in 1934, this book identifies and analyses the different types of waves most prevalent amongst the world's oceans and rivers and is an account of the author's original contributions to the knowledge of wave phenomena. Chapter one comprehensively explores the size and speed of ocean waves in relation to the velocity of wind, chapter two analyses waves in sand and snow formed and propelled by wind and current, whist chapter three investigates tidal bores and other progressive waves in rivers. The book also contains a variety of insightful and fascinating photographs presenting the different varieties of wave formation, such as tidal sand waves, leaping waves and the roll waves of a stream. This book will serve as an important reference work for researchers in the field and will be of considerable value to anyone interested in geophysics, climatology and oceanography.